Bay Area Daytrips (11-12 May 2013)

I meant to post this when I actually did the climbing a few weeks back, that way reports like "it was way hot at Pinnacles, but the shade was survivable" may have been relevant on the off chance that someone I know around here actually reads this stuff. Oh well, good for next year I suppose, though it would have been better if I had actually noted temperatures.

Anyway, enough of that. I was psyched to climb for most of the day for two days in a row, almost all leading, and pushed myself a bit with Bennett on Sunday at Castle Rock.

Saturday Pinnacles, The Flumes Northeast Face
Good late spring/early summer cragging, showed up at 10:30 just as the face was coming into shade. early morning showed machete ridge (and the Citadel) in shade. the whole area was bolts, no gear.
Kibbles and Bits (9) - lead
Bits 'n' Pieces, Extension (9) - lead - straightforward for the most part, better protected than Kibbles and Bits
Wet Paranoia (9) - TR - loose in spots, more fun than the first two
Jumangi (10a) - lead, TR - cruxy at top and bottom, good clipping stances exist if you look around
Cool Daze (8) - lead - big holds, fun moves
Adam's Apple (9) - lead - bring extendable runners to limit drag
Rebeca's Sailing (9) - mostly 5.7/8 except for crux final move (fun!)
Nipples and Knobs (10a) - sustained, good holds and rests, best route of the day

Castle Rock
Too hot in the sun, too buggy at the Underworld, spent the day chasing shade and running from too many bugs. Again, pretty much all bolts, only placed a couple of cams. We used the new Thornburg guide "Bay Area Rock", which has beautiful photos and great descriptions of these areas.
Chew Tooth Rock
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan (10a or 11a if using direct start) - lead
Hand Crack (8) - gear (3 pieces 1" to 3") - lead
Left (11b) - led through 2 bolts, maybe done if mossy holds on left count
Platypus Rock
Rat-A-Puss (10a) - lead
Al Mohammed aka Al Hussein left start (10d or 11a) - lead - fun start leads to easier climbing
Jelly Fish (11b) - booted off of crux before 2nd bolt
Moss Man (10a) - lead - fun, not described by its name
Play-A-Pussy (10a) - lead - left rope through first bolt when lower off Moss Man
Embryo (11c) - TR - cool slopers and thin crimp
Shady Rock (nearby) holds lots of (short, wild) promise, bring a bouldering pad
California Ridge
Mullah (10a) - lead
Guilty as Charged (10d) - lead - discrepancy between guides, but felt a little soft for the grade

The Upper Crust (16 Feb, 3 Mar 2013)

Spark Notes:
Pinnacles NP, East Side (for your first trip or few read Clint Cummins' excellent overview page with topos, or you can get your brother to buy you A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument by Young, 2007)

Song(s) of the Trip(s):
Kronkite - Phil The Agony (Spotify)
My Number - Foals (Spotify)

On the surface, there's really nothing special here. Just a couple daytrips to Pinnacles. The first trip was to a new crag, and the second trip was a chance to visit a now-familiar crag and show Kat's roommates a good time top-roping outside for the first time. On both trips I was able to climb progressively harder, and led the whole day. Plus we hiked out in darkness both times, which I think is a sign of a day well spent.

More than that, though, these last couple trips were a great reminder of the many reasons I climb.
Waking up early and getting moving in the morning.
Being apprehensive on the way in, turning up the music to get the psyche going.
Feeling a little fear and anticipation.
Racking up and sacking up and going for it.
Sometimes the whole pitch has me gripped. Sometimes I seem to float up.
It's about being outside, being in a beautiful place, and sharing positive energy all around. (Kat climbed probably the best pitch of her LIFE on Organgrinder, high stepping like a pro, almost peeling twice, but staying on and sending the pitch.)

Anyway, three weeks ago, the day started a bit rough. I was happy to be out, but the climbing didn't feel right. I was making things far harder than necessary. Fast forward to this past weekend and the same climbs that felt tough before now felt fun, really really fun. I had found just a tiny bit of "flow."  Sometimes the biggest obstacle on a climb is doubt. We'll see if I can hold it together again next time.

On a more concrete note, I think the Upper Crust is great. There are climbs from 5.5 to 5.10c, there is shade at the base and sun up top, it's easy to set up top ropes and it's a bit off the beaten track. Definitely worth visiting again. But there are so many more areas at Pinnacles, I think it'll be a while before I get back...and Yosemite season is coming soon...but there's skiing to do first...and long bike rides which I seem to have been enjoying recently...

Some dude leading Organgrinder, and another toproping Me and My Monkey (Credit: Flickr)

Ticklist:
Lost Sister (5.8) - bolts, little gear - lead, R on easy ground
Castles Mad of Sand (5.10b) - bolts - lead 3x
Sound Chaser (5.10a) - bolts - lead 3x
Relayer (5.10c) - bolts - lead
Organgrinder (5.8) - bolts - lead
Me and My Monkey (5.9) - bolts - lead
Japanese Water Torture (5.7) - bolts - lead (R at the top, but can divert to 3rd bolt of Nodal Line)
Nodal Line (5.5) - bolts - lead
I'm looking forward to finishing off the crag...5.6X, 5.10aR, 5.7R

Pinnacles (2-3 Feb 2013)

Sparknotes: hiking Balconies, Bear Gulch, and North Chalone Peak at Pinnacles NP

After another too-long work trip to China, I was ready to get outdoors for a weekend. We packed the car full of climbing gear and cooking gear (namely our recently acquired dutch oven). I was decidedly not excited for climbing; on my last trips to Pinnacles, I climbed okay but felt uneasy the whole time. I had only been to crags near the parking lot, along Bear Gulch Trail or on the Rim Trail. The reputation for loose rock and substandard protection. My jet-lagged (and nervous) self wasn't about to get psyched for climbing on Saturday, so instead we took the guidebook for a walk to the Balconies caves and ogled Machete Ridge, followed by an excellent stew courtesy of Kat.

Sunday, I packed the backpack full of gear and we headed up to the Reservoir to maybe climb or maybe hike. The morning was beautiful and trails empty (thanks to the Superbowl) so we continued hiking to North Chalone Peak, the highest point in the park. The best view on the hike came after a sweeping lefthand turn.  While the summit-view is excellent, if you're feeling tired this intermediate view is almost as good.  Upon descending, I had exhausted Kat's goodwill, and so we didn't get after any climbing (carrying the rope and rack was good training weight, though). We did head up the backside of Tiburcio's X for sunset, though, which I highly recommend.

So many rocks to climb. From the lookout on the way to N Chalone Peak.