Spark Notes:
Sunday (a week ago) - Handley Rock Park, lower tier
Saturday (two days ago) - Castle Rock State Park, Waterfall Cliff
Guidebook: Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area (but Bay Area Top Ropes has some information on the areas, too)
Song of the Weekend(s): Little More Time - Zox (Spotify)
The past couple weekends have mostly been spent working (with a trip over to Merced for a day to pick oranges at my grandma's and do income taxes...hardcore, I know.) Even on working days, though, I've been happy to get out for at least a couple hours on real rocks.
On the plus side, I did manage to climb at least a little bit at a couple local areas and Handley Rock Park and Castle Rock State Park.
Handley is relatively close, has zero approach, and top rope setup is super easy. From the top (an easy scramble), the views of the valley and bay are pretty nice, too. Having previously climbed on the left side of the top tier (5.8-5.9s and a 5.11), we headed down to the lower tier (5.7-5.9 depending on the line you choose). The sandstone definitely makes you trust your feet and balance. Good practice.
As for this weekend, I had been hoping to climb all day Sunday, but work wasn't going to let that happen. My prospective partner was coming down from SF, and that commute just wasn't worth the couple hours that I could commit. Fortunately, Kat and I climbed at the Waterfall Cliff (sorry no photos) for a couple hours yesterday. The area is about a mile hike in, and has a nice view over the top of the (namesake) waterfall. The waterfall dries up in the summer, but it was flowing pretty well this weekend. We were also watched over by some circling turkey vultures...slightly ominous.
Despite being a wuss, and worrying about my forgotten chalk bag, I did keep working on my major goal for this year: becoming a better leader (trad leader, even better). We climbed on the far right side of the cliff: Degeneration (5.10a) and Leading to Death (5.9). Both were "mixed" climbs (gear and bolts, not rock and ice). The gear sections were 5.6-5.8 and good practice for placing both nuts and cams. Again, the nature of the climbing meant mostly footwork with only a little bit of pulling. I was happy to climb without falling, but getting comfortable falling (when it's safe) is definitely something I need to work on as well.
Tick List:
Handley: Lower Left Routes (5.7-5.9)
Castle Rock: Degeneration (5.10a on bolts, 5.6 on gear) and Leading to Death (5.9, 5.8 on gear)
Sunday (a week ago) - Handley Rock Park, lower tier
Saturday (two days ago) - Castle Rock State Park, Waterfall Cliff
Guidebook: Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area (but Bay Area Top Ropes has some information on the areas, too)
Song of the Weekend(s): Little More Time - Zox (Spotify)
The past couple weekends have mostly been spent working (with a trip over to Merced for a day to pick oranges at my grandma's and do income taxes...hardcore, I know.) Even on working days, though, I've been happy to get out for at least a couple hours on real rocks.
On the plus side, I did manage to climb at least a little bit at a couple local areas and Handley Rock Park and Castle Rock State Park.
Handley is relatively close, has zero approach, and top rope setup is super easy. From the top (an easy scramble), the views of the valley and bay are pretty nice, too. Having previously climbed on the left side of the top tier (5.8-5.9s and a 5.11), we headed down to the lower tier (5.7-5.9 depending on the line you choose). The sandstone definitely makes you trust your feet and balance. Good practice.
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| Handley Rock (Credit: Access Fund) |
Despite being a wuss, and worrying about my forgotten chalk bag, I did keep working on my major goal for this year: becoming a better leader (trad leader, even better). We climbed on the far right side of the cliff: Degeneration (5.10a) and Leading to Death (5.9). Both were "mixed" climbs (gear and bolts, not rock and ice). The gear sections were 5.6-5.8 and good practice for placing both nuts and cams. Again, the nature of the climbing meant mostly footwork with only a little bit of pulling. I was happy to climb without falling, but getting comfortable falling (when it's safe) is definitely something I need to work on as well.
Tick List:
Handley: Lower Left Routes (5.7-5.9)
Castle Rock: Degeneration (5.10a on bolts, 5.6 on gear) and Leading to Death (5.9, 5.8 on gear)
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