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3.06.2013

The Upper Crust (16 Feb, 3 Mar 2013)

Spark Notes:
Pinnacles NP, East Side (for your first trip or few read Clint Cummins' excellent overview page with topos, or you can get your brother to buy you A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument by Young, 2007)

Song(s) of the Trip(s):
Kronkite - Phil The Agony (Spotify)
My Number - Foals (Spotify)

On the surface, there's really nothing special here. Just a couple daytrips to Pinnacles. The first trip was to a new crag, and the second trip was a chance to visit a now-familiar crag and show Kat's roommates a good time top-roping outside for the first time. On both trips I was able to climb progressively harder, and led the whole day. Plus we hiked out in darkness both times, which I think is a sign of a day well spent.

More than that, though, these last couple trips were a great reminder of the many reasons I climb.
Waking up early and getting moving in the morning.
Being apprehensive on the way in, turning up the music to get the psyche going.
Feeling a little fear and anticipation.
Racking up and sacking up and going for it.
Sometimes the whole pitch has me gripped. Sometimes I seem to float up.
It's about being outside, being in a beautiful place, and sharing positive energy all around. (Kat climbed probably the best pitch of her LIFE on Organgrinder, high stepping like a pro, almost peeling twice, but staying on and sending the pitch.)

Anyway, three weeks ago, the day started a bit rough. I was happy to be out, but the climbing didn't feel right. I was making things far harder than necessary. Fast forward to this past weekend and the same climbs that felt tough before now felt fun, really really fun. I had found just a tiny bit of "flow."  Sometimes the biggest obstacle on a climb is doubt. We'll see if I can hold it together again next time.

On a more concrete note, I think the Upper Crust is great. There are climbs from 5.5 to 5.10c, there is shade at the base and sun up top, it's easy to set up top ropes and it's a bit off the beaten track. Definitely worth visiting again. But there are so many more areas at Pinnacles, I think it'll be a while before I get back...and Yosemite season is coming soon...but there's skiing to do first...and long bike rides which I seem to have been enjoying recently...

Some dude leading Organgrinder, and another toproping Me and My Monkey (Credit: Flickr)

Ticklist:
Lost Sister (5.8) - bolts, little gear - lead, R on easy ground
Castles Mad of Sand (5.10b) - bolts - lead 3x
Sound Chaser (5.10a) - bolts - lead 3x
Relayer (5.10c) - bolts - lead
Organgrinder (5.8) - bolts - lead
Me and My Monkey (5.9) - bolts - lead
Japanese Water Torture (5.7) - bolts - lead (R at the top, but can divert to 3rd bolt of Nodal Line)
Nodal Line (5.5) - bolts - lead
I'm looking forward to finishing off the crag...5.6X, 5.10aR, 5.7R