Sugarloaf (4 Nov 2012)

Sparknotes:
2 routes at Sugarloaf: Bollee Gold and Scheister. Guidebook: South Lake Tahoe Climbing, Supertopo

The big goal of the trip was Bollee Gold.  Since visiting last winter, both Bennett and I had been thinking about it. Stoke and opportunity aligned, so we packed the vehicle late on Saturday night and headed east.

After camping by the side of a forest service road, and caffeinating appropriately, we packed up and headed up the hill. The start of the climb was relatively easy to find, and clear from the Supertopo description. I figured the best way to deal with the nervousness was to seize the first lead, so that's exactly what I did. Probably one of the finer climbing moments I've had yet. I hung after the first bolt (not an auspcious start) and then once again higher up.  I thought I'd fall once more just before the anchor, even declaring so to Bennett, but somehow danced through.

The route is the ridgeline, I think the climber is at the first belay. Wow, right? (photo credit: Supertopo thread)

Bennett took the second pitch and styled it, falling only once. I followed clean, but that was the easy part. With the hard climbing done, we scampered the rest of the way past some heads-up, but not dangerous runouts. We both agreed the first pitch had been the crux, and were happy to find out that we weren't the only ones to think so.

B^2 at the top.

With the major goal accomplished for the day, we rapped the route and headed right to Scheister. Since I had taken the first lead, Bennett took the chimney to start.  I can't say I was disappointed, and I felt like I got the best pitch of the route (fingers/hands on pitch 2).  We topped out in the dusk and descended in the dark, intermittently losing the trail.

For some reason, Bennett brings out the best in my climbing, helping me be psyched and willing to take risks, and that day was no exception.

Ticklist:
Bollee Gold (5.10c, 4 pitches) - hard stuff is bolted, but bring a couple pieces of gear for the top. More beta on Mountain Project.
Scheister (5.7, 3 pitches) - really great fun, and a good chimney\

Bradley Hut Ski Tour (5-6 Jan 2013)

Sparknotes:
Saturday - ski to Bradley hut, 2 laps on nearby knoll
Sunday - started late (~10:30), ski up Silver Peak and back down to the cars.

I was itching to get back into the mountains after a long winter break.  Of course, spending time with friends and family was great, but with only one day of resort skiing, it was hardly how I usually try to take advantage of time away from work.

Knowing that Rusty's usually good for an adventure, I talked my way onto a large group trip to the Bradley Hut.  The idea was to ski in and do some shorter laps on Saturday, then hit Silver Peak and ski out on Sunday.  I think if we had been a smaller group, we would have suffered less from large-group inertia and gotten in more skiing.  It's tough to complain though...the hut was cozy, I enjoyed hanging out with new and old friends, I got my fix of the mountains (at least until it got me thinking of all the other places I want to ski in Tahoe this season), and I skiied past dark both days, so I think I got the most of it.

ROYGB(I)V in front of the hut. (photo by Rusty)

Silver Peak seems like a great place to head back to next time I'm in the area, and has me thinking of more hut to hut touring. There are plenty of skiiable aspects and varied terrain (bowl, ridge, glades, etc), and very much doable in a day with time for a few laps of the best stuff, not to mention easy access parking.  There are several trip reports showing good tours (here's one and another). I didn't log the track we took, but helpfully Anthony did.

Red on the way in, green laps, and blue on Sunday. (track by Anthony)

Next up...Freel Peak, Tallac, Pyramid Peak, or something else that I haven't even thought of yet...